Wednesday, July 31, 2019

Simple Alidade

Taking a break from clothing and painting minis (yes, I'm still very slowly working on wargaming bits), I worked on a  small project yesterday that will help me increase, by practice, my understanding of 18th century surveying.

Alidade and Plane Table in use.

The alidade was a simple tool, used in conjunction with a plane table, to lay out lines in the field while surveying, thereby creating a map during the survey, as opposed to after.


Alidade and Cutting Board...er... Plane Table.
Most of the period alidades that I've found images of online are made of brass.  To keep things simple, I made mine from scrap wood leftover from other projects.

Sights folded.
The build was pretty quick.  The base and sights were cut to length.  I cut down one edge of the base to make it easier to run a pencil/pen along.  With the sights clamped together, I drilled and cut slots in the center.  The sight arms are attached to the base with small hinges, like original alidades, to allow for folding, making storage and transportation easier.  The sight lines are just thread held in place in tiny grooves at the top and bottom of the wood.

Sight Line.
Samuel Wyld, in his 1725 book, The Practical Surveyor, describes the use of the alidade (which he calls an Index):

"Assign on the Paper a Point, or stick a Pin at 0, (to represent the Hole in the Ground or present Station) to which Point, apply the fiducial Edge of the Index, and turn it about, keeping the Edge close to the Point or Pin at 0, till through the Sights you see the Hair cut a Staff or Mark, set up exactly in one of the Angles, as at then by the Edge of the Index, draw a Line from the Point 0 towards the Angle a, with the Point of the Compasses, without regarding the Length, so it be long enough."

I think this will make a good practice set up.
In other words, look through the sites toward a point, then draw a line on your paper.


Now I need to get back to work on a tripod and a chain for measuring.

Friday, July 12, 2019

Girl's 1770s Dress

Settler or Princess?
The Challenge: April: Upping Your Game (Women's Clothing & Pleats)
Material:
Cotton flannel, with Osnaburg lining, cotton thread
Pattern: Larkin & Smith "18th Century Girl's Gown"
Year: 1750s to 1770s
Notions: Twill tape, eye hook
How historically accurate is it? Pattern and construction are accurate.  Color is accurate.  I'm not sure if cotton flannel was available in New England at the time period.
Hours to complete:
40 to 50
First worn: July 9, 2019. First public outing will be August 3 at Old Sturbridge Village.
Total cost: About $10. The fabric was reclaimed from an old bed sheet.


Since I started late, I'd like to catch up on the first six months of The Historical Sew Monthly Challenge.  Gabriella has been needing a new dress for events for some time, and I was determined to make her something for Hubbardton.  I missed the deadline by a couple of days, but the majority of this piece was finished in about one week, with some details and hemming that I finished up in the last couple of days.  The dress fit nicely with one of the HSM Challenges.  The Challenge for April was "Upping Your Game," or doing something that you're not great at, in an effort to become better at it.  Since I've mostly done men's clothes in the past, and since my pleating is generally horrific, this dress hit two of my weak points.
Pleats!  So many pleats!
The pattern is from Larkin & Smith, and is based upon their research into a circa 1750-1770 girl's dress from a private collection.  I followed the hand-sewing instructions to make it as historically correct as possible, given that I was sewing it out of a bed sheet.  Flannel is period correct, but I'm not sure if cotton flannel is, so that may be the only bit not accurate.  I can say that the Larkin & Smith pattern and instructions are excellent, and were easy for me to follow.


Yay! Pocket slits!
Like the cloak that I made for her earlier, the important thing is that my customer is happy.  She's not used to the tight fit, which is period, but she's extremely happy that it has pocket slits.  So happy, in fact, that she spent the next couple of days after these photos hand-sewing a pocket for herself, based on the one pictured in "Costume Close Up."

Overall, I'm very happy with how this turned out.  Construction photos below.



Larkin & Smith pattern and instructions - Highly recommended!
Tracings of the correct size pattern pieces.
Pattern pieces cut out.
Bodice fabric and lining pieces cut.
Pinning the pieces
Bodice front and back pinned.
First fitting. A bit tight.
First fitting. Goofy face is apparently mandatory.
Hand sewn eyelets in each bodice back piece.
Bodice back finished with plackets.
Placket opened to show eyelets.
Bodice lining finished.
Finished bodice interior.
Finished bodice front.
Finished bodice back.
Pleats.  I'm pretty happy with these.
Finished dress, minus hemming and skirt hook.
Finished back, minus skirt hook and eye.
Bodice back is spiral laced.

Wednesday, July 10, 2019

242nd Battle of Hubbardton

This past weekend was the 242nd anniversary of the Battle of Hubbardton in Hubbardton, Vermont. The battle is usually described as being the only battle fought in the now state of Vermont, though there were other skirmish level actions in several areas.

Warner's Regiment forming up.
I didn't get many photos, as my family schedule sort of jumbled my weekend, and when I was on the battlefield, I was either drilling or keeping track of my children. My daughter did manage to get a few photos though.

Since we live close by, we swung by the event on Friday night to set up our tent and chat quickly with everyone. On Saturday morning, Gabriella and I returned, this time with one of her chickens in tow. Earlier this year, she had asked if she could raise chickens. One of the breeds that we chose, the Dominique, is actually a heritage breed, appropriate to our time period. She's been dying to take one of her babies to an event, and since we were close by, we figured this would be a good one, as we could quickly return home if there was any trouble.

Chicken Rose, hanging out with the distaff.
Saturday morning the unit spent time drilling, working both on the Manual of Arms, and our movements across the field, while a few other units played out a small skirmish on the hill. There was also a bit of time for shopping, though sutler turnout was low this year, with about half the number of vendors as what I'm used to seeing there.

In the afternoon, the main battle for the day was scheduled. We were issued powder, and had started to gear up when the order was given to put everything under cover. To the north, the sky had turned very dark, and a low rumble of thunder could be heard. Soon the wind picked up, the rain started falling, and the lightening started to flash. Many of us huddled under the dining fly, watching the storm, and, ironically, enjoying the wind as it had been incredibly humid all day.

Unfortunately, the weather caused the battle to be cancelled.

Moving into formation.
One of the things that the public does not see in this hobby is what happens after hours. Once the sky cleared, and a few small units had gone out to skirmish for fun, a memorial service was held at the top of the hill. Our Chaplain, once again, read a great sermon, remembered not only the Americans who had fallen at Hubbardton, but also the British and German soldiers who had fought and died far from their homes. One of the most emotional points of the service was when the names of those in the hobby that we had lost in the past year were called out. Moments like these, out of public view, really show what a small community reenactors have.

Rose, entertaining the gathering.

After the main memorial service, Warner's Regiment held our own Toast to the Fallen. Each year, at events where we are reenacting on the same ground as those we portray, we hold an issuing of rum, and a toast to those men who had been killed, wounded, and captured in service to the country. Hubbardton was a bloody action, and several of the original Warner's men had fallen there. These toasts are solem occasions, but I'm glad that I get to be a part of them.

Off to do some drilling.
Sunday, for me, was a quick day. Due to a last mintue family scheduling change, I had to miss the morning battle, which was the actual reenactment of the Battle of Hubbardton, fought exactly 242 years after the real battle. The kids and I were able to make it over to the battlefield by around 10:30, but the kids were too demanding of my time for me to take the field. We did have a good visit, though, and Gabbi's birds provided entertainment for both the unit and the visitors.

Rose takes me for a walk.

Monday, July 1, 2019

Girl's Cloak


Riding Hood and Chicken Little
The Challenge: June: Favourite Technique (Bargain shopping & hand stitching)
Material:
Wool, with Osnaburg lining, cotton thread (mostly) 
Pattern: Based on the Cloak diagram shown in "Costume Close Up" by Linda Baumgarten & John Watson
Year: 1750-1810
Notions:
Twill tape, cording
How historically accurate is it?
99% accurate (a bit of polyester thread)
Hours to complete:
4 to 6
First worn: July 1, 2019. First public outing will be July 5 at Hubbardton Battlefield.
Total cost: About $6. I found a *really* good deal on wool.
A while back, I joined The Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge.  I haven't done a lot of sewing this year, so this is my first entry.  This past weekend, the kids and I did some bargain fabric shopping, and came across 100% wool for $5 a yard.  We snatched that up, and made our way back home.  Yesterday I sat down to make a cloak for G.  She's been wanting something warm for those chilly nights at events, so this was a perfect project.  I based it on the cloak in the book "Costume Close Up," which details selections from the clothing collection of Colonial Willamsburg.  For Gabbi's cloak, I scaled the measurements down to 77% of the original, which worked out perfectly for the 72" wide fabric.

A bit pointy, but it'll do.
 Sewing was all done by hand.  I added an Osnaburg lining to keep the wool away from her face.  The most challenging part of this project were the pleats at the back of the hood.  Gathers and pleats are not my strong point.  In this case, both turned out okay, though I probably could have made the back of the hood a bit flatter.

A happy customer.
The important thing is that my daughter is happy.  In this case, she loves the length, weight, and "Ooohhh.... It's warm" factor.

Preparing for a photo shoot by catching one of her chickens.

Construction photos below.
Marking out the length and width.
Cape cut out.
Hood and lining.
Gathering the neckline.
Attempting to pleat the hood back.
Could be better, but they aren't horrible.
Attaching the hood to the cape.
A photo of the original at Colonial Williamsburg.
Our recreated version.
Profile view.
Adding the hood drawstring and cape ties.